Patek Philippe Calatrava Calatrava 5177 Yellow Gold / Matador

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5177J-001 5177J-001 debuted in 2026 as a limited series of twenty pieces, distinguished by a hand-engraved dial inspired by the gold and black embroidery of the matador’s traje de luces. Executed in yellow gold, the reference translates textile ornament into engraved relief within the classical Calatrava format. Its yellow gold case measures 38 mm in diameter and 8.3 mm in thickness. The bezel is guilloched with the Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern, a decorative motif closely associated with Patek Philippe case design. The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres and fitted with a sapphire crystal case back. The external architecture remains restrained, leaving the dial engraving as the principal feature of the reference. The dial is entirely hand-engraved. The upper layer was first chased to produce a textured ground, after which the ornamental motifs were modelled to evoke the embroidery of a matador’s suit. Fine lines were cut into the metal with a dry-point needle to reproduce the softness and sheen of threadwork, while an onglette graver was used to define the central stitching and add brilliance to the decoration. The black background reinforces the contrast between the engraved motifs and the underlying dial surface. Time is indicated by pierced yellow gold dauphine-style hands. Inside is calibre 240, Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin self-winding movement. It measures 27.5 mm in diameter and 2.53 mm in thickness, consists of 152 parts, uses 27 jewels, and operates at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. The movement is wound by an off-centre 22K gold mini-rotor and provides a minimum power reserve of 48 hours. Its regulating organ comprises a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and it bears the Patek Philippe Seal. The watch is supplied with two hand-stitched grained calfskin straps: one in red, fitted as standard, and one in black as an additional option. Both are secured by a yellow gold prong buckle.