Patek Philippe Calatrava Calatrava 5177 White Gold / Man with a Mustache

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5177G-057 5177G-057 debuted in 2026 as a limited series of ten pieces, distinguished by a dial combining cloisonné enamel and flinqué enamel. Executed in white gold, the reference depicts a mariachi figure associated with Mexico’s Day of the Dead imagery, translating the subject into a compact enamel composition within the classical Calatrava format. Its white gold case measures 38 mm in diameter and 8.3 mm in thickness. The bezel is guilloched with the Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern, a decorative motif closely associated with Patek Philippe case design. The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres and fitted with a sapphire crystal case back. As with other Rare Handcrafts Calatrava references based on the 5177, the case remains restrained, leaving the dial decoration as the principal point of distinction. The dial was first hand-guilloched with a plume motif and then covered with translucent enamel so that the underlying pattern remains visible according to the flinqué technique. The outlines of the skull and surrounding elements in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel were formed using approximately 55 cm of gold wire weighing about 0.37 grams. The cloisons were then filled with transparent, opaque, and semi-opaque enamels in 32 colours. Through the combination of colour gradation, translucent layering, and the engraved base, the dial develops both depth and tonal variation across the composition. Each dial underwent between 12 and 14 firings at temperatures ranging from 800°C to 840°C. Time is indicated by white gold dauphine hands. Inside is calibre 240, Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin self-winding movement. It measures 27.5 mm in diameter and 2.53 mm in thickness, consists of 152 parts, uses 27 jewels, and operates at 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. The movement is wound by an off-centre 22K gold mini-rotor and provides a minimum power reserve of 48 hours. Its regulating organ comprises a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and it bears the Patek Philippe Seal. The watch is fitted with a hand-stitched dark blue calfskin strap with a vintage finish and turquoise stitching, secured by a white gold prong buckle.